When to go
June and September are ideal — warm enough to swim, light enough crowds. July and August are busier but still calmer than Ibiza or Mallorca's south coast. May has perfect weather for hiking the Camí de Cavalls (the 185km coastal path). Winter is genuinely sleepy — many restaurants close November through April. The annual Sant Joan festival (June 23-24) in Ciutadella with the dancing horses is one of the best parties in the Mediterranean.
Where to base yourself
Mahón (capital, eastern end) for harbor life, gin distilleries, and easy access to the south coast calas. Ciutadella (western end) for old-town charm, the most beautiful sunsets, and a slower pace. Es Castell or Cala Llonga for waterfront stays. Avoid the all-inclusive resort blocks at S'Algar or Punta Prima — the rest of the island is so much more interesting.
Best beaches and calas
Cala Macarella and Macarelleta — the postcard pair on the south coast (parking fills by 10am, walk in from Cala Galdana for the better entry). Cala Mitjana for shade and shelter. Cala Pregonda on the north coast for red-sand drama. Cala en Turqueta. Cala Trebalúger for the hike-in feel. The north coast is windier and quieter; the south is calmer and busier.
What to eat and drink
Caldereta de langosta (lobster stew) — the iconic dish, expensive (€100+) but worth it once at Es Cranc in Fornells. Sobrasada and queso Mahón (the local cheese, the only Spanish cheese with the same name as a city). Pomada (gin + lemonade) is the local drink — Xoriguer is the gin distillery to visit in Mahón. Ensaimadas, like Mallorca but less sweet. Smaller restaurant scene than Mallorca but consistently good.
What to do
Hike a section of the Camí de Cavalls — the southern stretches between Cala Galdana and Son Bou are the most beautiful. Visit the prehistoric Talayotic sites (Naveta des Tudons, Torre d'en Galmés) — Menorca is dense with 3000-year-old stone monuments. Take a sailing day out of Mahón harbor (the second-largest natural harbor in the world). Watch sunset from Cap d'Artrutx lighthouse near Ciutadella.
Getting around
Rent a car — public transport is minimal. The island is small (50km end to end) but the calas are reached by long single-track roads, so allow time. Some south-coast cala roads close to cars in summer (Macarella, Es Talaier) — you'll need to park at the lot and walk 20-40 min, which is part of the experience. Bring a snorkel everywhere; the water clarity is exceptional.