When to go
May, June, and September. Peak season (mid-July to late August) is electric but expensive — boats and accommodation triple in price and need to be booked 4-6 months ahead. October is gorgeous and quiet; many restaurants close by mid-month. Winter (November-March) the island is largely shut, ferries reduced. If you want the Italian crowd, August. If you want the island, June.
How to get there
Fly to Ibiza, take the ferry from Ibiza Town to La Savina (Formentera's only port). Two main operators: Balearia and Trasmapi — 30 min crossing, departures every 30 min in summer. Round-trip €40-60 in season. Don't bring a car from Ibiza — rent on-island instead (€40-80/day for a small car or €30/day scooter). Private boat charter from Ibiza is the luxury option (€2-5K/day).
Best beaches
Ses Illetes — consistently ranked among the world's best beaches. Sand bar between turquoise waters. Arrive before 11am or after 5pm. Llevant — Illetes' east-facing twin, equally stunning. Migjorn — the long south-coast beach, divides into multiple sections (Es Arenals end has the beach clubs, Migjorn central is quieter). Cala Saona — sunset spot on the west coast. Es Caló de Sant Agustí — small fishing-village cove, charming for lunch.
Where to eat
Juan y Andrea on Ses Illetes for the canonical beach-club lunch (book months ahead — €200+ pp). Sa Sequi (La Savina) for grilled fish. Beso Beach (Migjorn) for boho-chic. Vogamarí (Migjorn) for Italian-leaning seafood. Can Carlos in Sant Francesc for traditional. La Tortuga (San Ferran) for excellent grilled meats. Italians swear by Caminito (Es Pujols, Argentine grill).
What else
Rent a bike or scooter and follow the green country roads — the island is 20km long and rewards slow exploration. Visit the salt flats near La Savina (also a flamingo habitat). Sunset at Cap de Barbaria lighthouse (the south-western tip — drive 40 min through nothing). Hippie market at La Mola on Wednesday and Sunday afternoons. Es Caló salt-water pools at low tide. Rent a small boat (no license needed for under 6m) and motor to Espalmador, the uninhabited island just north.
Practical notes
Cash still matters at smaller beach bars and country restaurants — bring some. Sun is intense; Formentera has minimal shade. Reef-safe sunscreen is now legally required at protected beaches. Italian is widely spoken at restaurants and shops in summer. Wifi can be patchy outside hotels — embrace it.